It's all downhill from here
(day 11 - Gorak Shep to Pheriche
day 12 -
What did I do to myself???! Overexertion, exhaustion, -17 degrees and the sickness. Shit! I feel awful today - nauseous, knackered, thirsty - and we walked for a hard 6 hours to Pheriche - in a long dusty valley that went on forever - teasing us with the end in sight for over an hour.
my diary for this day starts "I am watching the teahouse lady pour a bucket of yak shit into the fire". This teahouse is pure luxury - some of the group get a bucket shower, it is warm, it has decor. We are all elated to be here. Especially as it is down from Gorak Shep - the highest arsehole of the world which made everyone feel pretty crappy.
Some of the gang were keen to merge tomorrow and the next day into one walk to get back to Namche Bazar in super quick time, but they overlooked the fact that some of us - me especially - would never make the 12 hour walk without dying... None too popular.